Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
